BURBERRY FW12
Here’s Monday’s Burberry show in London, a terrific presentation by Christopher Bailey. There is a small dose of menswear, with 7 looks included. Burberry is the undisputed leader in utilizing the internet to promote itself and the production of this massive and sometimes plodding show (is it the music?) brings up memories of the Victoria Secret spectacle, complete with shots of front row celebrities and special effects, including simulated rain for the finale. But you have to wonder if there is a breaking point and whether or not bigger is always better. The editors in attendance are only halfway there, after over 200 shows in New York, and more than 70 slated for Milan. Massive fashion shows may be a relic in 5 years.
PRADA UOMO SPRING SUMMER 2012
Michael Pitt stars in the new Prada campaign rolling out this week across the bigger March issues. Shot by photographer David Sims, the images are designed to look like portraits from the 1950′s. They work seamlessly with the women’s campaign and it’s good to see Pitt recast as a bright-eyed, young heart throb after his self destructive turn in Boardwalk Empire. (more…)
PRADA DONNA SPRING SUMMER 2012
Another perfect short film from Prada for the women’s spring collection.
THE GREAT DAVID MCCULLOUGH
David McCullough is a Pulitzer Prize winning American historian who’s books are required reading, especially on President’s Day. He deftly captures the greatest moments and leaders in our nation’s history; quite remarkably, while still using a vintage “Royal” typewriter. Reading non-fiction history can be a laborious task, but not with McCullough, a compelling storyteller. Read one book, and the rest will follow. Begin with 1776, the story of George Washington, his followers and the year of American independence. His other notable books on the New York Times Best Seller List include: John Adams, Mornings on Horseback & Truman.
WEEKEND PRESIDENTIAL
Take a cue from one of the best dressed presidents in history who knew how to relax in style. The Kennedy’s perfected the effortless, windswept weekend look. But if you cared to notice, there was no questioning their immense wealth and hold on the American aristocracy: inexpensive khaki’s – worn on a luxury yacht, a frayed polo – hanging from the clothes line at the family compound. If only it were so easy for the rest of us. But don’t despair if you haven’t yet secured your place at the local yacht club, you can at least feel iconic by simply adding classic American sportswear essentials to your wardrobe this spring. And conveniently, they’re all available at Steven Alan, one of the best online shopping resources for men:
WEEKEND PRESIDENTIAL
Levi’s 1950′s crew sweatshirt, $165. The stitch detailing on the front collar gives this sweatshirt a collegiate look and sets it apart from more basic crews. Super Future “People” sunglasses in dark Havana, $163. Made in Italy, (more…)
MICHAEL BASTIAN FW12
One of the best things about designer Michael Bastian is how wearable his collections are. There is an incredible amount of depth and texture in his collections, yet they all seem so effortless. Luxurious fabrics, striking patterns and creative layering give the illusion of a man who cares about how he looks, but doesn’t have to think about it. And the aesthetic for Fall/Winter 2012? Think international playboy but charmingly buttoned up – a Wes Anderson character who proves that you can be romantic and masculine at the same time. Slippers, hunting plaids, traditional wool check suits, heavy knit cardigans and a stunning deep red tuxedo with floppy bow tie were stand outs. And the production was beautiful, with vintage chandeliers, operatic lighting and a final set that began with light falling snow. Add in a french bulldog accompanying a model on the runway and there were a lot of smiles in the audience – not an easy feat. Finally the soundtrack: (more…)
GILLETTE + FASHION
If you haven’t noticed, men’s grooming powerhouse Gillette has been quietly making inroads this past week amongst industry creatives and top designers. It’s a smart move for a brand that has primarily used celebrity athletes to define it’s public image. Coinciding with the launch of their new Prostyler, Gillette is a lead sponsor of the MADE fashion shows at Milk Studios, directly supporting 10 established, and up-and-coming designers: Tim Hamilton, Anthony Azzuolo, Carlos Campos, Simon Spurr, Assembly, Public School, Oumlil, Number: Lab, Patrik Ervell and Band of Outsiders. It’s a big shift for Gillette and shows how much confidence they have in the Prostyler, a product that has both an electric trimmer for styling and a traditional 5 blade attachment for wet shaving. Their national ad campaign is also refreshingly and decidedly different, featuring Gael Garcia Bernal, Adrian Brody and Andre 3000 looking super stylish and laid back. (more…)
Q&A: ANDREW POLLARD OF PROJECT
Yesterday PROJECT Las Vegas kicked off what marks the final stop along the Fall 2012 menswear retail trade show calendar. What was once an after-thought presentation of little known brands has become a must-stop for editors, retailers, and apparently celebrities, with Pharrell Williams making a surprise appearance yesterday. At the helm of PROJECT is the always energetic and buttoned-up Andrew Pollard, who, in just a few short years since taking over, has made PROJECT a creative force in the industry and launching pad for emerging brands. I spoke to him about his vision, the resurgence, and what brands we should be looking out for.
First off what are a few of the brands that are showing at Project that we may not know of yet but will be hearing a lot of in the future?
I’d say look out for Comune, Presidents, Insubordinate Lads, Johnny Love, Simon Miller, Wolsey, Number: Lab, Volta and TheMADLEY. (more…)
TOMMY HILFIGER F12
This is a great menswear show to watch from a production stand point, as it’s a good example of how an extravagant show of wealth can convey instant confidence and success in a top brand. Few retail companies have the financial resources to recreate a Parisian park in the middle of Manhattan, and the illusion is impressive. Held at the massive uptown Armory, the large open space was transformed to what could have been mistaken as the beautiful grounds (more…)
THE SIMON SPURR SOUNDTRACK
Music has always been such an essential part of runway shows, dictating the pace, mood and message a designer wants to convey. At last month’s Louis Vuitton show in Paris for example, disco legend Giorgio Moroder introduced the show over a loud speaker then unleashed a booming soundtrack. The show was a hit. Other designers, like Simon Spurr, eschew theatrics and play straight up, good old fashioned rock and roll. Here are three songs from his impressive show last night at Milk studios. “Mind Eraser” by the Black Keys – Played during the finale. “Blood Like Wine” by Balthazar. “Blue Steel” by Ox.
Q&A: STEFAN MILJANIC OF GILDED AGE
One of the cooler brands out there, Gilded Age, got a jump on fashion week yesterday with a rugged and functional line-up of James Dean worthy clothing. I spoke with talented designer Stefan Miljanic about his new collection, the challenges of staying true to a strict manufacturing process and how the brand has evolved over the years.
As you debut your Fall/Winter 2012 collection, look back a bit and tell me how Gilded Age has evolved over the years?
When we started it was the era of $10 sweaters and everything was super cheap, it was the heyday of H&M and Uniqlo and I just wanted to do something that could last, that took a pair of hands to make. I wanted it geared more towards the artisan because I consider that more creative than say just doing 100,000 sweaters in a day. As a younger brand it was a challenge with our business strategies and we tried to find spots where we could evolve and be sustainable. We are fortunate to be a very small and nimble organization and there is nothing we can’t do when we put our minds to it. It’s a business after-all, making clothing, and when it comes to challenges, we roll with the punches. (more…)
KNOW THIS BRAND: OAK STREET BOOTMAKERS
At last month’s Project Show in New York, one of the biggest stand outs was newcomer Oak Street Bootmakers out of Chicago. Although only a few years old, they’ve created a lasting brand identity that immediately evokes history and heritage. Crafted by hand in a small factory outside of Bangor, Maine, they’ve proven they are in it for the long haul by putting manufacturing first. For Spring, the Navy Camp Boot is an all around workhorse. A lighter (more…)
BENJO’S SHOE & BOOT LACES
Colored laces have been on just about every hipsters well-worn winter boots all season long but now that it’s almost Spring? Benjo’s out of Minneapolis makes a thinner lace that works perfectly for those heavy soled brogues, cap toe black lace ups and white classic sneakers. Adding a bold jolt of color can modernize an otherwise stuffy shoe silhouette and it’s an inexpensive way of changing up your footwear, without actually taking them off your feet. $8 per lace, available at Benjo’s.
VINTAGE PORSCHE MANUFACTURING
Take a tour of the Porsche factory in this remarkable look back at German auto manufacturing in the 1960′s. Once you get past the charmingly rigid introduction by the son of founder Professor Ferdinand Porsche, the process of making each sports car by hand is fascinating. The film’s style, music and graphics provide a window to an era gone by.
NEW STORE: FRIEND
What happens when a New York City lawyer decides to move back home to New Orleans and open a menswear shop? For Parker Hutchinson, the result was “Friend” – a relaxed, well-edited store with all the key elements for a promising future. I spoke with Parker about his motivations, biggest challenges, and how there are very encouraging signs of retail growth in a city still very much in recovery.
What is the retail environment in New Orleans right now, and where did you see an opening that you are trying to fill?
There’s been a real spate of store openings in New Orleans recently. I was fortunate to find a great storefront on Magazine Street in the Lower Garden District, an area that’s shaping up to be a shopping destination for men. Within two blocks of Friend, there are at least 8 other menswear or men’s accessories stores, with half of those opening only in the last year. (more…)
CLASSIC BRITISH CHARM
Add a touch of refinement to your Spring wardrobe with beautiful accessories, straight from Britain’s most storied brands. Be sophisticated, even romantic, but never a dandy. And yes, lineage comes at a price. The “Rockley” messenger bag by Mulberry has a modern silhouette that balances an otherwise stuffy line-up. 595 pounds, available at Harrods. If you consider a full-length trench coat in Burberry’s iconic plaid pattern a bit too garish, the umbrella should (more…)
ARTIST STEPHEN WILTSHIRE
This is pretty remarkable.
TOP 5: SPRING JACKETS
Here are 5 rain resistant, field-tested jackets that would be a smart addition to any hallway closet. Go with Barbour’s subtle military green coat #4 for a versatile jacket that’s easy to wear to the office, or dial it up in bold yellow for a blustery day on the water. When looking for the perfect spring jacket keep in mind a few key things: bold colors make their return after a dark and muted winter, lightweight fabrics can be worn well into April, and (more…)
KNOW THIS BRAND: DEHEN 1920
Dehen out of Portland, Oregon is a brand you should know about. Since 1920 they have been manufacturing varsity inspired sweaters and motorcycle jackets that have become iconic heritage pieces. I had the pleasure of speaking with James Clark to find out more about the company.
Dehen appears to be having a moment right now. What do you attribute this to? Is it part of the current obsession in menswear with all things vintage?
I’m not sure if we’re having an official “moment” but things seem to be aligning for us. All on a small scale of course, but aligning nonetheless. I think some of it has to do with the whole vintage/heritage obsession, but a more important part of this is a growing appreciation for “crafted” product. While the heritage movement feels like a trend, the crafted thing feels, at least to me, like a permanent shift. There’s a huge population of people that are seeing really well made clothing for the first time, and while they may not choose to buy it 100% of the time, they now know (more…)
THE CAPSULE SHOW
There are key trade shows occurring twice each year in the menswear world and Capsule is one of the best and brightest. This is a great short film recapping the New York market that ran January 16th and 17th on the west side of downtown Manhattan. I participated and showed my F12 tie collection, you can see a quick glimpse around the 38 second mark. It was a fun few days, with Bloody Mary’s and a keg tapped each afternoon to keep everyone happy. The soundtrack is awesome: “Roman (Robotaki Remix)” by Housse de Racket.
