PREP STYLE: VARSITY CREW
This past weekend, the world’s largest regatta, the 43rd Head of the Charles, was held in Boston with 8,000 rowers and 300,000 spectators attending. That’s a lot of tweed and penny loafers. Rowing has always been an iconic representation of prep style, and with the recent obsession with the book “Take Ivy,” it may become the next vintage style to pop up in men’s collections, similar to Michael Bastian’s focus on lacrosse for his successful reinvention of Gant.
The Saturday Evening Post illustrated in 1907 by J.C. Leyendecker & vintage poster “College Crews” by noted illustrator Edward Penfield in 1908.
Stall & Dean, an apparel company established in 1898, makes these vintage varsity crew shirts and sweaters.
Brooks Brothers, fully understanding their target demographic, was this years apparel sponsor of the regatta.
MEN’S COVER TREND: TRUE GRIT
Esquire and V Man went with remarkably similar covers in both look and feel for their October and Fall issues. Javier Bardem, shot by Nigel Parry, Josh Brolin shot by Hedi Slimane, both black and white, no frills portraits of strong, rough-around-the-edges leading men. Maybe a nod to the popular movement in men’s fashion towards brands, designers and grooming products that put authenticity first. Red Wing, Billy Reid & Kiehl’s are strong examples. European men have always cared about how something is made, are American men finally catching up?
Look for Brolin this December in “True Grit” with Matt Damon & Jeff Bridges. Directed by Ethan and Joel Cohen, the film follows a tough U.S. Marshall as he helps a young woman track down her father’s murderer.
STORE REPORT: BARNEY’S BROOKLYN
The new Barney’s CO-OP outpost in Brooklyn feels like a men’s-only shop at first glance. All three of it’s massive windows feature racks of well edited, hip brands from Shipley & Halmos to Rag & Bone & Alexander Wang. Placing menswear front and center is now an expected strategy for building a smart retail environment. It’s the opposite of nature; women will hunt for clothes, while men casually forage.
The design of the store is clean & minimal, allowing the clothing to shine. “Back to the Start” by Lily Allen played from speakers on the ceiling, exposed lighting reflected off the floor painted a high gloss gray acrylic. There is no stroller friendly ramp, underestimating Brooklyn’s well deserved label as “The Baby Borough.”
The big question will be how men react to the higher prices and thinner silhouettes. Will they pay $160 for an Alexander Wang hooded sweatshirt when a similar looking one sells for $46 at American Apparel around the corner? A Shipley & Halmos gray suit jacket ($550) & matching trouser ($325) & beautiful charcoal gray top coat ($795) were all well priced. While a Thom Browne rugby shirt for $325 may be a bit too high for the neighborhood. The downstairs features an impressive denim shop with top brand Raleigh ($295), and an imposing winter parka from Spiewak Golden Fleece ($495).
Rounding out the mix is a rather small collection of accessories – there are only two watch brands sold, the gigantic Nixon and slightly smaller Eleven Eleven. A pair of Nixon leather headphones look good from afar but when tested they sit uncomfortably high and aren’t as snug as high-end expensive DJ headphones should be.
The final verdict: great clothes and lots of buzz; a few blocks down, a woman in her 80′s in a wheel chair asked “Do you know where Barney’s is?”
ALDEN WINGTIP BLUCHERS
Founded in 1884, the Alden Shoe company based in Middleborough, Massachusettes is the only original New England shoe and boot maker remaining in business today. Indiana Jones wore a pair of Alden 405 work boots so they must be a cool company. The shoe above is the Alden Short Wing Blucher, a limited edition collaboration for Blackbird. ($470)
BOB GUCCIONE, FOUNDER OF PENTHOUSE, DEAD AT 79
Wall Street Journal. Bob Guccione, founder of Penthouse magazine, has died. He was 79 years old. According to a statement from his family, Guccione died on Wednesday at Plano Specialty Hospital in Plano, Texas, following a prolonged battle with cancer.
Penthouse, founded in 1965, was a kind of dirtier distant relation of the relatively classier Playboy. While Playboy employed top writers to pen it’s articles, and lured leading female stars to pose in its pictorials, Penthouse was more focused on pure (and not so pure) sex. To read the remainder of the article from the WSJ, click above.
ARTIST ALEX GREGORY
Cartoonist and TV sitcom writer Alex Gregory on how his two professions interact: “It has to do with learning how to punch a line, of using the minimum amount of words, and always delaying the twist until the end. So the caption for a great cartoon frequently comes in the same kind of zingery form as a TV-sitcom line.”
PRADA MADE-TO-MEASURE
Prada is the ultimate shop for finding a dapper, perfectly tailored suit. I will be stopping by their Madison Avenue store from 5-6pm or so tonight to check out their Made-to-Measure program. Please come by if you are free to see the collection and have a taste of Glenmorangie scotch.
STYLE ICONS: CARY GRANT & THE TIMELESS GRAY SUIT
Cary Grant, New York City. 1938. A true style icon, Grant often wore a sharply tailored gray suit, white shirt and black tie. A timeless, classic look that is as leading-man appropriate today as it was in the 30′s. The above photo shows Grant returning from a vacation in Europe. On board was Phyllis Brooks, whom he would soon go on to marry. To get the look, find a gray two button suit that fits precisely and pair it with a white point collar dress shirt and a medium width, solid black tie.
J.Crew’s 2 button gray “Ludlow” suit jacket ($395), matching trousers ($195), dress shirt ($65) and solid black tie ($49)StS.
BIG SKY MONTANA
For an October upgrade worthy of the Rockies, here are five things to look for:
1966 Chevy. When pick ups were subtle and the power was under-the-hood and not tricked out with aggressive styling.
Crescent Down Works for J.Crew. ($465) A Seattle based shop founded in 1974. The silhouette is a bit longer and more practical than the flashy puffer jackets that are currently a trend. Ideal for trudging through a snowstorm.
Timberland Dark Brown Earthkeepers. ($160). Wear these with worn-in jeans or heavy Carhartt’s and a thick pair of wool socks.
Orvis Deerskin Gloves.($59) These versatile gloves are good for hauling hay barrels or simply driving cross-country on a long road trip. The inner fleece shells remove and can be worn on their own. For no-nonsense outdoor gear, Orvis is a great option.
Hamilton Conservation Watch. ($800). Add a strong Elk to your watch collection and feel good about your purchase. Hamilton teamed up with Harrison Ford to create the Conservation model with proceeds going to Conservation International: “Working to ensure a healthy and productive planet for us all.”
WOOLRICH
Tracing it’s roots way back to 1830, Woolrich labels itself “The Original Outdoor Clothing Company” – perhaps a knock on L.L. Bean, founded in 1912 in Freeport, Maine. Two must-haves from their fall/winter collection: a buffalo plaid jacket based on their original hunting jacket from the 1940′s and a wool shawl-collar cardigan. A little rugged outdoors appeal goes a long way, even if raking leaves is more your weekend activity, not hunting deer.
BOURBON: THE GENTLEMAN’S SPIRIT
If you’re into the southern dandy look – bow ties, plaid & tweed, then a good bourbon is the natural next step. This distilled whiskey is named after Bourbon County, Kentucky. Sweet and rich, with notes of brown sugar and toasted nuts, Knob Creek is a good place to start. A solid heavy rocks glass is essential.
FRIDAY’S PLAYLIST
A few songs for the weekend. A quick tip – Google: “Song Name + Mediafire” for downloads that are hard to find.
“Cello Song” (featuring Jose Gonzalez) – THE BOOKS
“All of Me” – LOUIS ARMSTRONG
“Stick with me Baby” – ROBERT PLANT & ALISON KRAUSS
“Carouselambra” – LED ZEPPELIN
“Cut Dick” by MR. OIZO
“I Wanna Dancer” (special disco mix) FAZE ACTION
“Magnificent” (Fred Falk Remix) – U2 – find the right version!
KNOW THIS BRAND: GITMAN VINTAGE
Gitman Vintage is a small company from Pennsylvania that specializes in heritage sport shirts and neckwear. They had a strong showing at the Spring/Summer 2011 Pitti Immagine Uomo show in Florence and are on-trend with the latest fascination with high-quality American sportswear. “People are looking inwards a bit more, there’s a real sense of working out what it is that sets you apart, what’s in the DNA of the brand and how you can stay true to that.” – Chris Olberding, VP Gitman Vintage. They’ve definitely hit the mark with the winter blue chambray shirt shown above.
L.L. BEAN SIGNATURE COLLECTION
L.L. Bean Signature collection by designer Alex Carleton. You can’t beat the wool flannel blazer $185 and matching trousers $95.
CLUB MONACO DISCOVERS LAYERING
I’ve always loved Club Monaco but they were a bit late to the game discovering the power of layering. Clean and minimal will take a brand only so far. Click through to their site to see the new collection shown on a variety of interesting creative types. Still the best fitting sport jackets for taller, thinner gentlemen.
MOSCOT ICONIC EYEWEAR
The first Moscot shop, 94 Rivington Street, 1934. An iconic, independently-owned American company with a knack for producing perfect tortoise shell, heavier frame glasses.
TOMMY HILFIGER NYC EVENT
Come by for a drink and some new fall duds if you’re in town tonight.
WEEKEND KICKS: SPERRY “CVO” TOP SIDERS
Timeless Sperry Topsiders. With jeans or khakis.
