THE REBRAND
What happens when Apple takes over a massive retailer? It becomes instantly cooler. Check out the new J.C. Penney logo – actually now it should be referred to as the “jcpenney” logo – the name of the company itself has changed. Ron Johnson, the former head of Apple’s incredibly successful retail division, became CEO of jcpenney in June of 2011 and his massive changes were unveiled yesterday in New York.
To put everything in context it’s important to look back. Two Oscar seasons ago J.C. Penney clearly wanted to play with the stars in retail by creating a more upscale perception of their brand. They executed a massive marketing push around awards season including expensive advertising, an official sponsorship of the Oscar’s and a temporary and massive ‘pop-up’ shop in the middle of Times Square. The problem? None of this did anything to solve the core issue – that the name and branding of the company in and of itself was the problem. (more…)
A SIMPLE PLAYLIST
Here’s a playlist that’s a bit more sophisticated and less centered around a heavy thumping bass. From Django Reinhardt in the 1920′s to today’s Belle & Sebastian, it’s intended to complement conversation and not compete with it. Latin flavor is always essential along with a few classics mixed in to tie it all together, from Dinah Washington to the Rolling Stones. You’ll need to look them up on your own but for a small taste, here’s “Morenito” by Stephane Pompougnac: (more…)
LOUIS VUITTON VICTOIRE
Here’s a menswear show worth watching from start to finish. Designer Kim Jones, in only his second season at the helm of Louis Vuitton, has created a razor sharp collection with the timeless appeal of glamorous old Europe. Highlights included a perfectly proportioned 2-button pale blue suit with slight sheen, a black dinner jacket matched with deep purple trousers, a lux double-breasted overcoat and, as always the case with Louis Vuitton, a stunning collection of leather bags. Immaculate and proud, these are young men of distinction. Here are four key looks from the collection: (more…)
W FEBRUARY 2012
This cover for the February issue of W Magazine is a bit perplexing as it looks like it could have been shot in 1994 during the “Interview with a Vampire” craze. Freshly blown out, feathered hair is a risky game plan and it’s a bit surprising that it was approved. “Brad Pitt Hotter Than Ever” & “Spring’s Sexiest Fashion” does little to offset the overall impression that this cover might be better suited for Glamour or Cosmo. Here’s a terrific flashback photo of Mr. Pitt from another 1994 classic, can you guess the movie? (more…)
WOOLRICH WOOLEN MILLS
Here are four looks from last week’s FW12 Woolrich Woolen Mills presentation in Milan featuring a very precise and tightly edited 15 looks. It’s a good example of how a smaller brand can make an impact during the frenzy of a fashion week made up primarily of powerhouse, highly-staged runway shows. It’s also encouraging to see a storied American brand like Woolrich experience a second/third? act, with head creative director Mark McNairy largely responsible for keeping the brands momentum moving positively forward from the successful Daiki Suzuki era. The Civil War was listed as (more…)
COUNT BASIE JUMPIN AT THE WOODSIDE
Some music gets the mind going better than others, jazz and the big band era in particular. Count Basie (1904-1984) was one of the most influential musicians of his time and his song “Jumpin at the Woodside” helped usher in the golden age of Big Band Jazz. He introduced several generations of listeners to this new sound and helped support the careers of hundreds of musicians. From his peers: “Basie is remembered by many who worked for him as being considerate of musicians and their opinions, modest, relaxed, fun-loving, dryly witty, and always enthusiastic about his music. As he summed up the key to his understated style, in his autobiography, ‘I think the band can really swing when it swings easy, when it can just play along like you are cutting butter’”. That’s a good philosophy for just about any earnest endeavor. If you like this song, here’s another favorite: (more…)
THE DEMON OF SCREAMIN
Aerosmith’s Steven Tyler peformed the national anthem at yesterday’s AFC Championship game between the Patriots and Ravens and it was more humorously entertaining then a well-executed performance. He did a good enough job, although the press this morning has been ripping him up. It was a fair choice to have Tyler perform – his range may be “limited” but his passion for the Patriots and his New England roots go deep. His choice of outfit was kind of funny: leather and fur jacket, running shoes and a vintage logo tee shirt – looked like he had just come from the Salvation Army en route to the game. As he concluded the national anthem, a massive Hercules C130 military plane roared overhead, a welcome relief to the fading voice of the “Demon of Screamin.”
THE GENTLEMANS BAR
If you find cocktail shakers a bit excessive, there is a smoother way to prepare first-rate drinks. While out in New York recently at Locanda Verde, Robert De Niro’s popular Tribeca restaurant, the talented bartenders could be seen using a stunning crystal glass jar, with little of the fanfare that is now de rigueur amongst the mixology set. The jar is known as a “Seamless Yarai Mixing Glass” and can be bought for $52 at Cocktail Kingdom, a terrific bar supply website. Here are a few other essentials to round out your bar: (more…)
DARK DOLCE & GABBANA
Here are four top looks from this weeks Dolce & Gabbana FW12 menswear show in Milan. The first look is a perfect example of an effortless and, dare I say, casual? double breasted suit. It’s the lower button stance, short cropped jacket and form fitting fabrication that makes it purely Italian, and so uniquely Dolce & Gabbana. Heavy gauge sweaters have always been a bright spot for the company, with a medium gray, cable knit cardigan a particular stand out. It’s very difficult to find manufacturers who can create such a lux, stylish sweater – as thinner-weight, flimsier knits out of China have started to take over. It’s refreshing to see such a rugged and substantial piece (more…)
THE RANCOURT SHOE FACTORY
This is an interesting and informative short film that shows the inner workings of Rancourt & Company, an American shoe manufacturer based in Lewiston, Maine. It’s a terrific look at a family-owned business with a staff of highly skilled workers who have been creating hand sewn footwear since 1964. Most of the techniques have remained steady over the years, with the exception of the addition of a tuck and a shank in the bottom of the shoe that provides more support.
POWERFUL PRADA
If you stage an impressive and memorable runway show that is incredibly powerful yet insist it’s all a parody, is it still powerful? If the buzz coming out of Milan surrounding the Prada men’s Fall 2012 fashion show is any indication, then the answer is a resounding yes. In spite of the notion that this was all a Fellini-esque outside look at the notion of power, Miuccia Prada’s show was indeed a forceful triumph. Men looking 100% in charge, not only of their own lives, but yours as well. Whether part of a mafioso familia or a Tsarist ruling class, generations of a powerful family strode confidently through the vast space – from the youngest, Jamie Bell, to Alex Carril, Willem Dafoe and the patriarch, a scowling and resolute Gary Oldman. (more…)
GRENSON ENGLAND 1886
Grenson is a well respected shoe company founded in England 1886 by William Green. It is often a challenge to balance the rich history and heritage of a storied brand with the need to innovate and stay competitive. I spoke with the owner and creative director, Tim Little.
For the novice buyer, what should one look for when trying to find a well made dress shoe? What are the basics in good shoe construction?
Firstly find one that you like, don’t buy something just on quality. The easy way to tell is the upper leather. Look closely to see if you can see the grain of the leather. If it’s a shiny plastic-looking finish, it’s usually cheaper leather. Ask what the construction is. Many shoes that have stuck on soles have a fake stitch to make them look Goodyear Welted. It sounds obvious but look at the price, most brands work on the same profit margin so if its expensive its because it cost a lot to make. Finally, (more…)
DEBONAIR VALENTINO
Wednesday’s Valentino show at Pitti Uomo marked, in earnest, the beginning of the Fall 2012 menswear season. The collection, created by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, featured a sharply tailored, not too-skinny silhouette that gave an overall impression of confidence and success. And this was important, not just for the clothing on the runway, but for the designers themselves. If the show was any indicator of what’s to come, (more…)
ASTRUD GILBERTO
This is a timeless classic, “Aqua de Beber” by Brazilian singer Astrud Gilberto in 1965. The television medium was fairly new and it’s interesting to see Astrud rather innocently try to work with the camera.
AMERICAN MADE: J.PANTHER LUGGAGE
This clever video deftly captures the functional spirit of the “Courier Ruc Case” by J. Panther Luggage Co. I spoke with the founder and designer of the company, Johnny Diamandis, to find out more about his new company, the importance of being Made in the USA and what the plans for the future are. If you are a fledgling designer, or creative type who appreciates well-made products, Johnny is a good person to hear from.
How important is being made in the USA to your brand and business strategy?
It’s very relevant. All business start up fashion brands should have as close a relationship as possible with their factories in my view, as without that, it would be equivalent to being a chef without access to the kitchen. I can jump on a train and be in Connecticut in an hour or two to go over details and construction or other issues and be back in NY in the afternoon. This level of collaboration with our makers is critical to us in that we (more…)
